Are your pepper plants not growing as expected? Slow or stunted growth happens to peppers sometimes, but there are methods to fix it. We have put together our top tips for when your pepper plants are not growing.
The first few tips in this article will pertain to younger plants, while the later tips will apply to more mature pepper plants. However, we recommend reading all of these causes to ensure that you take preventative measures next season!
All of these methods are part of basic pepper plant care. Your routine may simply need one adjustment to get your pepper plants to start growing again. For each possible cause, we’ll cover some other symptoms you will likely see in addition slowed or stopped plant growth.
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1. Give Young Peppers Plenty Of Light
Peppers come from a warm climate with lots of sunshine. Young plants are the most susceptible to poor growth if given too little light.
No, a sunny window is not ideal for young pepper plants. For best results and the fastest growth, use a grow light on seedlings indoors. We recommend providing young pepper plants with 12-16 hours of light per day.
Other symptoms of poor light:
- Leggy plants (tall and lanky)
- Small leaves
- Slowed growth
If you already use a grow light, make sure it is strong enough for your peppers. Light is the energy source for your plants, and this energy is used to form new leaves and branches. Without adequate energy, your pepper plants will grow more slowly.
For a quick recommendation, try this budget grow light on Amazon.
2. Fertilize Regularly, But Not Too Much
Once pepper seeds sprout, they will start to use nutrients. They don’t need much at first, but as they grow larger, they will use more and more.
Depending on the stage of growth, the type and quantity of fertilizer you use will vary. For young plants 4 weeks or younger, we recommend 1/2 strength nitrogen-rich fertilizer. Alternatively, you could use a nutrient-rich potting soil without fertilizing at all.
See all our recommended soils and fertilizers here.
For plants that are beginning to produce flowers and fruits, we recommend switching to a phosphorus-rich fertilizer and reducing nitrogen. This encourages the plant to stop growing new leaves and focus on producing peppers.
Other symptoms of nutrient issues:
- Yellowing leaves
- Leaves wilting or falling off
- Flowers dropping
If your pepper plants are not growing, consider your fertilizer regimen and adjust if necessary. If you are fertilizing consistently or have healthy soil, look to other possible causes.
3. Don’t Over-water
We will chant this mantra time and time again to new pepper growers. Peppers always prefer even-watering, and never too much! This is the most unforgivable form of over-loving your pepper plants.
Too much water can cause a plethora of issues, one of which is stunted pepper plant growth. While under-watering isn’t great either, over-watering just might be the death of your plants.
Other signs of over-watering:
- Curling leaves
- Leaf drop
- Flowers falling off
- Root rot
- Poor fruit development
As you can see, over-watering is not good for peppers. Get it under control and learn how to know for certain when your pepper plants are thirsty.
Read more about watering pepper plants here.
4. Transplant Shock
Transplanting is a necessary step in growing peppers from seed. If you have recently transplanted your peppers, they likely will not grow for a few weeks.
This is normal. When peppers move to a larger pot, the root systems need some time to adjust to new surroundings. Be patient and allow the plant to recover without too much disturbance. We also recommend avoiding fertilizing for the week after transplanting.
Sun shock is a related issue that can occur when transplanting peppers outdoors for the first time. Direct sunlight is much more intense than grow lights and pepper plants must be hardened off gradually to avoid damage.
Other signs of transplant shock:
- Leaf drop
- Curling or abnormal leaves forming
- Sun scald (if moving to the outdoors)
One option is to use a transplant shock fertilizer at the time of transplanting. These stimulate new root growth and can help pepper plants acclimate more quickly.
Most important is to be patient after transplanting while the plant recovers.
5. Don’t Compress Soil Too Much
The roots of your pepper plants like a well-aerated, porous medium to grow through. If you pack your potting mix too tightly, the roots may struggle to expand and absorb water efficiently. The water will also have difficulty draining properly from the soil.
For potted plants, we recommend packing soil down, but never too tightly. When filling new pots with soil, stop compressing when you start to some feel resistance.
Compress too little, and the soil will collapse when you water for the first time. Compress too hard and the roots will not have access to enough oxygen.
Other signs of compressed soil:
- Root rot
- Leaves dying
- Oversaturated soil
- Poor drainage
If your ground soil is compacted, use a garden fork to gently loosen the soil up. For raised beds or garden plots, we recommend gently loosening (not tilling) the soil each year a few weeks before planting.
Also, add compost and other organic material to ground soil to encourage good bacteria!
6. Transplant To A Larger Pot
One of the most obvious causes for pepper plants not growing is an under-sized container. Many pepper varieties can grow to be very large, over 8 feet in height. However, this is only possible with enough soil space.
Other signs of under-sized containers:
- Plants produce flowers early
- Root bound plants
When transplanting pepper plants, the timing is most important. Seedlings in small seed cell trays should usually be upsized to 3″ pots after just 3-4 weeks. After another 4-6 weeks, they are ready to be moved outdoors to full-sized containers.
7. Pull Weeds Regularly
This may seem obvious, but weeds can inhibit your pepper plant’s ability to grow. While weeding is a chore, it is important to avoid your peppers from competing with unwanted plants. Weeds can also be a breeding ground for unwanted pests.
Pull weeds when they are small to prevent large, soil-disturbing root systems. Alternatively, lay down a mulch cover around the base of your peppers, such as straw or black tarp. This will prevent weeds from growing in the first place.
Learn more about keeping weeds out of the garden here.
Other signs of excessive weeds:
- Well, when the weeds are taller than your pepper plants, you have a problem!
For larger garden plots, we highly recommend using a weeding hoe.
8. Check For Pests
Pests can be a nightmare for any type of garden plant. Peppers are vulnerable to aphids, spider mites, thrips, grasshoppers, slugs, and many others.
When pepper plants are under attack, they can often slow or stop growing. However, there are some tell-tale signs of insect damage.
Other signs of pest damage:
- Curled leaves
- Holes in leaves or pepper pods
- Bite marks in leaves (usually caterpillars or slugs)
- Live pests (look closely and under leaves)
Aphids are known to feed on young foliage. If you have aphids, your plants may be trying to grow, but can’t because the new leaves are being destroyed.
Learn more about treating pests on pepper plants in our article here.
Unfortunately, pepper plants are susceptible to a variety of diseases. Most will cause visible signs of infection and distress.
Diseases can often mean that your pepper plant must be discarded. Most can spread easily from one plant to another, and many can lay dormant in soil or seeds, infecting future crops.
To avoid disease, always be sanitary while in the garden. We also recommend bottom pruning pepper branches to keep leaves up and away from the soil. Never water over the top of your plants, always just at the base of the main stem.
Read our article on pepper plant diseases and problems here.
10. Plants Have Reached Mature Size
The last possibility is that your pepper plants have simply reached their mature size! Some pepper varieties won’t grow above 1′ tall, regardless of container size. Others can grow to be truly massive and produce hundreds of pods.
Be sure to set your plant size expectations realistically at the beginning of the grow season. In our experience, chinense and baccatum pepper species tend to be quite large, while annuums can be small to medium-sized.
As we’ve covered, there are many possible causes for pepper plants not growing. With the right nudge, I hope your plants will be back on track and growing healthy again soon.