Pepper Plant Diseases and Problems

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Growing peppers is a lot of fun, but it doesn’t always work out perfectly. Some years, harvests can be significantly reduced by unforeseen pepper plant diseases or problems.

In this article, I will share some of the most common pepper plant problems, how to identify them, and how to prevent issues in the future. Some diseases are irreversible, other issues can be dealt with within a single growing season.

While this is not an exhaustive list of pepper plant diseases and problems, it covers the most common issues we are asked about by our fellow pepper growers.

In This Article

Bacterial Leaf Spot

Bacterial leaf spot is a common bacterial plant infection seen all around the world. It is most common in rainy, humid, and temperate climates. These are the environmental conditions in which the bacteria can spread most easily.

Leaf spot is a bacteria, so it can be spread by touch, through seeds, or via soil. Use cleanly soil and watering practices to avoid splashing the leaves with soil or cross contaminating.

Pepper Plant Leaf Spot
Bacterial leaf spot on pepper plant.


  • Yellow and green spots on leaves
  • Brown spots on leaves in later stages
  • Raised, corky spots on peppers
  • Leaf drop and decaying peppers


  • Remove infected parts. As with pepper plants infected with viruses, you should remove parts of the plant that show signs of leaf spot. The bacteria can spread easily, especially under damp and hot conditions. You don’t need to remove the entire plant unless it is totally covered.
  • Provide adequate fertilizer. With proper nutrition, pepper plants can actually fight off the bacteria. As with humans, the more healthy we are, the more able we are to fight off bacteria quickly. Feed any affected plants with an all-purpose fertilizer at the recommended frequency. Remember, too much fertilizer is a bad thing, too, as high salts in the soil can lead to worse disease issues.
  • Spray with natural fungicide. Although leaf spot is bacterial, fungal treatments have been known to help. Use a copper based fungicide as a foliar spray in the early morning or late evening to help reduce the spread.
  • Avoid wetting the leaves when watering. Water is necessary for the spores to multiply and spread on your pepper plant’s leaves. Always water at the base of the plant to avoid splashing water onto the leaves.
  • Practice cleanly gardening. As with all bacterial and viral pathogens, it is important to be cleanly while in the garden. If possible, use gloves when handling your plants. Avoid touching all of the plants, one after the other to reduce the spread of spores.

Learn more about various pepper leaf spot problems here.

Buy our ebook: Growing Perfect Peppers
Buy our ebook: Growing Perfect Peppers

Mosaic Virus On Peppers

Another very common pepper plant issue is mosaic virus. There are many different types of mosaic virus, and once a plant is infected, it is irreversible. Some pepper varieties are resistant to tobacco mosaic virus, while none are resistant to cucumber mosaic virus.

Mosaic viruses can be seed borne or soil borne and are spread by sap sucking insects such as aphids. They can also be spread by contact of infected plants, and are most problematic in dry weather.

Pepper Plant Mosaic Virus


  • Green and yellow mottled leaves
  • Prickly or bumpy surface on fruits
  • Stunted growth
  • Low pepper production


  • Remove affected plants. There are no effective treatments for viruses. If you suspect mosaic virus, remove the pepper plants from the garden and burn them if possible. The fruits are still safe to eat, but the seeds can carry the virus, so do not save seeds from affected fruits.
  • Keep the pests at bay. Mosaic viruses are commonly spread by sap sucking insects such as aphids. Use a pure neem oil solution with castile soap and water and spray plants to deal with these pests.
  • Keep the weeds under control. Weeds can carry mosaic virus, and can also be a breeding ground for the insects that spread it. Use a ground cover, or at least keep the weeds at bay with a weeding hoe (these are great for saving your back).
  • Avoid touching plants. Always wash your hands before and after gardening. Your hands can be the vehicle to transfer viral pathogens from one plant to another. Also, avoid smoking in your garden, as this can introduce mosaic virus to the soil.
  • Plant resistant pepper varieties. Some varieties have been identified to be more resistant to tobacco mosaic virus, though none are resistant to cucumber mosaic and other viruses. Look for varieties that are labeled ‘TMV’ (tobacco mosaic virus resistant) at nurseries and garden centers. Some common types are sweet banana, super cayenne, and bell boy hybrid.

Blight On Peppers

Phytophthora blight is a pepper plant disease that is spread by a soil-borne pathogen. If your pepper plants have leaves low on the main stem, the rainfall can cause the soil to splash up on to the foliage, introducing the disease.

There are more than one type of blight, usually categorized into ‘early blight’ and ‘late blight.’ Symptoms are similar, but some are more common in different parts of the world at different times of the growing season.

There are many other plant varieties that are susceptible to blight, including tomatoes, eggplant, beans and all types of squash.


  • Large, brown leaf spots and wilting
  • Brown or black stems at base of plant
  • Root rot (leading to plant death)
  • Fruit rot (when in contact with infected soil)


Plant your peppers in a raised bed or in pots to improve drainage. Blight is most commonly found in in-ground gardens or fields. Rainfall will have less time to sit on the surface of the soil and spread the pathogen in a raised bed or a potted plant.

If you can’t use a raised bed or pot, try mounding up the soil around each plant to avoid standing water at the base of the plants.

Another step to take is to use a mulch, such as straw, grass clippings, or black tarp. Mulching helps prevent splashing from the soil onto your pepper plant’s leaves when it rains. It also has other benefits like improved water retention and subduing weeds.

If it is dry, do not over-water your garden. Standing water is the only way that blight mold spores can multiply and spread. Wherever the infected water flows, the spores will follow.

Always acquire your soil and/or compost from trustworthy sources. Bringing infected soil into the garden is the easiest way to end up with this pepper plant problem.

Damping Off Disease

Damping off disease is a common cause of death in young pepper plants. It can be caused by a variety of fungi and molds. All of the pathogens thrive in moist, cool conditions (usually below 65°F).

Damping off disease on young seedling.


  • Seedlings fail to sprout from soil
  • Brown spots on seedling leaves
  • Browning on lower stem
  • Soft, slimy foliage
  • Young seedlings fall over and die


  • Keep garden tools clean. Always practice good hygiene in the garden. Clean your tools at the end of the season using hot, soapy water and allow them to fully dry. Also, after working in the garden, make sure to clean your hands (I usually just take a shower) and wash clothes. Watering cans and hose nozzles that have been in contact with the soil can also harbor the spores.
  • Don’t over-water. In addition to the many issues caused by over-watering, damping off is more likely in an overly-moist soil. Allow the surface of the soil to dry before adding more water to pepper seedlings.
  • Keep it warm. We use a seedling heat mat to germinate our pepper seeds at around 80°F, then use grow lights after they sprout. The lights keep the grow tent warm, between 70-75°F.

Damping off is a severe issue that can spread from one seed cell tray to another, and if affects many different plant species. It is common to see entire trays of plants perish when damping off disease occurs, so take good care to prevent it.

Verticillium Wilt On Peppers

Bacterial wilt is an issue that can impact pepper plants along with many other vegetables. It is commonly found in former tobacco fields, and can wreak havoc on entire crops if not caught early. It is most common in the Southeastern US.

The bacteria plugs up the vascular tissue of the plant, making it impossible for water to be transferred throughout the plant. Typically, pepper plants infected with verticillium wilt will begin to wilt on one side of the plant first.

As the bacteria grows, the plant will eventually collapse and die. If it is discovered, this pepper plant problem should be dealt with immediately.


  • Yellowing and wilting leaves, sometimes starting on one side of the plant
  • Vascular discoloration (inner tissues of the stems turning brown)
  • Fully collapsed plants (death)


  • Water your plants. The most common reason for pepper plants wilting is simply a need for water. Don’t over-react to wilting, assume it is bacterial wilt, and rip up your plants! Try some water first, and if that doesn’t solve the issue in an hour or so, investigate further. Learn more about pepper plants wilting here.
  • Remove affected plants. As with most diseased plants, the first step is to remove and destroy affected plants. Only resort to this step if you are sure that your plants are infected.
  • Control pests. Cucumber beetles and other insects can spread bacteria from one plant to another. Learn how to identify and control these pests and others to keep bacterial wilt from spreading and persisting in your pepper garden.
  • Add beneficial bacteria to soil. Using beneficial bacteria has been shown to be effective at treating bacterial wilt. This method may be better suited for professional farmers who grow peppers and other veggies for profit.

Pests On Pepper Plants

Pests can cause significant damage to pepper plants on their own. From aphids to spider mites to thrips, the list of potential pepper plant pests is long. Thankfully, there are preventative measures you can take against most of them.

White Aphid On Pepper Plant
Aphid on pepper plant.


  • Visible pests (check under leaves, on stems, etc.)
  • Leaf curling or distortion
  • Dark spots on leaves
  • Holes in leaves


The type of pest will often determine the best solution. Sometimes, you can simply remove the pests, as with caterpillars, slugs, and earwigs. However, others are small and come in large numbers to feast on your pepper plants.

  • Spray with a hose. Aphids and other small, sap sucking insects can’t fly, and do not have a very strong grip. By spraying the leaves directly with clean water, you can knock a majority of these pests off of the plant. This isn’t a permanent solution, but it can slow them down.
  • Spray with neem oil. Spray your pepper plants using a solution of 1 tbsp pure neem oil, 1 tbsp castile soap, and 6 cups of water. The neem oil is all-natural and will kill active pests and deter new ones from joining the party.
  • Introduce beneficial insects. Lady bugs and predatory wasps are some of the most common beneficial garden bugs. You can attract them by planting certain companion plants, or buying larvae to hatch in your garden. Always release live ladybugs in the evening when the sun is going down to avoid them flying away. The ladybugs will stay and feast on aphids and other sap suckers.

The list of pepper plant pests is lengthy, and this is in no way a complete guide to controlling them. However, a general rule is to grow a diverse range of plants so that natural predatory insects come to control the pest populations. For more info on dealing with aphids, read here.

Blossom End Rot On Peppers

Blossom end rot is most common on tomatoes and large sweet pepper varieties. It is primarily caused by a lack of calcium within the plant which leads to an inability to form the fruit’s skin. It is not actual rot, but just an underdeveloped fruit.

The pepper skin will develop dark, soft spots, usually on the bottom of the fruits. This vulnerable skin invites mold to grow, making the affected part of the fruit inedible.

Blossom End Rot Pepper Pod
Blossom end rot on sweet pepper.


  • Soft spots on bottom of pepper pods
    • Shriveled and dead skin
  • Mold inside of peppers


  • Water evenly. Even though the issue is calcium-related, providing calcium rarely fixes the issue. Most of the time, BER is caused by improper watering; allowing the plant to become completely dehydrated, then flooding it with lots of water. This causes the plant to transpire much of the absorbed water through the leaves, and for most of the available calcium to bypass any developing fruits. Instead, water before your pepper plants start to wilt from lack of water, keeping soil evenly moist and well-drained.
  • Wait it out. It is fairly common for the earliest fruits to have blossom end rot, while later fruits will be normal. Sometimes, the best thing to do is to simply do nothing at all and wait for your plants to sort things out themselves!

In case you are not already, be sure to fertilize regularly with a solution containing calcium.

Learn more about blossom end rot on peppers here.

Yellowing Leaves

One of the most common issues pepper growers face is the dreaded yellowing leaves. While it is usually not a big deal, there are measures you need to take to correct this pepper plant problem.

Yellow Pepper Plant Leaves


  • Yellowing leaves
  • Leaf veins turning yellow
  • Leaves falling off


While the solutions to yellowing leaves will vary depending on the cause, here are a few potential fixes.

  • Provide nitrogen. Nitrogen is an essential nutrient for healthy plant development. It helps pepper plants grow lots of big, strong green leaves. It is also the most common nutrient to be deficient in soil. Make sure you are fertilizing regularly and that your fertilizer contains enough nitrogen. Also, get a soil test annually if you are planting in the ground.

Tip: If the problem is nitrogen, the yellowing leaves will begin at the bottom of the plant, moving upwards over time.

  • Provide magnesium & calcium. A magnesium deficiency will cause chlorosis when severe, meaning the veins of leaves will remain green while the rest turns yellow. Use a cal-mag spray or use soil amendments like bone meal and blood meal when planting peppers. Many all-purpose fertilizers contain these secondary nutrients.
  • Don’t over-water. Over-watering is another possible reason for pepper plants turning yellow. Be sure to only provide water when necessary and to allow potted plants to drain excess water. Peppers prefer even-moisture, so use a moisture meter or allow the first inch or two of soil to dry between waterings.

Learn more about pepper plants turning yellow here.

Curling Leaves

Here is a problem faced by first-time and veteran pepper growers alike. With so many possible causes, treating curled pepper leaves can be tricky.

Most of the time, curling pepper leaves is a sign of either too much light, too much water, or plant edema. There are diseases that can cause curled leaves, but if the plant appears otherwise healthy, it is most likely one of these causes.

Pepper Plant Overwatering or Calcium Deficiency


  • Curling leaves
  • Distorted leaves
  • Stunted growth


  • Move grow lights up. If you are growing peppers from seed indoors, your grow light may be too close to your plants. If you are using an LED light, it should probably be at least 12-15 inches from the plant leaves, depending on the light’s power. Read up on your specific light unit and be sure that your plants have enough space.
  • Increase airflow. Plant edema is caused by environmental conditions, especially poor air circulation and over-watering. If your plants appear to have white crystallized bumps along the underside of leaves, they may have edema. Increase airflow with a fan if indoors, or by spacing peppers farther apart outdoors.
  • Make sure your soil has calcium. Pepper plants require calcium in order to properly form strong cell walls. This is what gives the leaves and pepper pods their symmetrical, uniform shape. When calcium is deficient or missing, the leaves and fruits may distort. Ground soil is rarely deficient in calcium, but potted plants can be affected. Check your potting soil’s ingredients. If calcium is not mentioned, be sure to provide calcium with an all-purpose fertilizer like this one.
  • Don’t over-water. We’ll say it again, over-watering is bad! Don’t provide too much water for your pepper plants. It can cause curling leaves, too.

I hope this article helped you diagnose your pepper plant problems. While these are by no means the only issues you may have with your pepper plants, they are definitely the most common problems we have seen.

Keep a close eye on your plants, look out for any changes, and most importantly, keep them healthy and happy with enough nutrients, water and sunlight! Happy pepper gardening.

Calvin Thumbnail


One of the original Pepper Geeks! When Calvin isn’t gardening or learning more about peppers and botany, he might be traveling new places or playing some music.

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  1. I just noticed black spots on the stems of my peppers and also the stems of my peppers blooms, on my chocolate habanaro peppers and it spreading on both peppers that are close to one another but planted in separate containers. What could it possibly be. I just planted the peppers last year August 2023. They’re still producing, but have small white insects and green aphids. I’m from South Africa. Please help

  2. I recently noticed what like new roots growing along the base of my pepper seedling. I’ve seen this with tomatoes but didn’t know peppers so this too. Any advice on the best thing for this seedling? I’m just starting to harden them off to plant outside in Georgia.

    1. It’s okay if you see adventitious roots on peppers – it is a natural response to high humidity/moisture. You can bury them when you transplant, but I usually just plant at the same depth the plant was at in the smaller container. Peppers don’t form adventitious roots as readily/quickly as tomatoes and some other nightshades

  3. Hi pepper geek thanks for the article
    Planted pepper, it has started flowering but the stamen doesn’t open that is it doesn’t release any pollen it just remains the same way then the flower falls off after some time pls what could be the problem

    1. It could be heat or another form of stress. In rare cases, a plant can be sterile (infertile), but usually only if the seed is a hybrid (usually accidental)

  4. Hello. I’ve been watching your youtube videos in preparation for spring. I have a question about jalapenos. One year we planted them from seed and the heat level was just as expected, but the next year, same package of seeds, but heat level was off the charts. We made jalapeno pickles, but they were too hot for us. We did remove the seeds and white membranes. Our spice-loving son-in-law thought it was too hot too, but suggested his friend, who went through chemo and could hardly taste anything would like them. They were too hot even for him. How does that happen?

  5. Hello, I am in South Texas and we had 3 days of teen temps.
    I had my pepper plants in a green house, and they still got damaged all the leaves are soggy and brown when i pulled them out some plants had all white roots, some had dead roots, some had a mix. What should I do?

    1. That’s rough! Especially on potted peppers that don’t have any insulation for the roots. Many varieties of peppers will die from that sort of incident. I’d say assess the damage and try to avoid it next time by moving potted plants to a warmer location. For in ground plants, insulate with mulch or cover with plastic.

  6. Now that it is raining heavily and it is getting colder and colder, is it the right time to grow green pepper and how often can you be applying chemicals in order to have healthy production. When harvesting, what are the good sizes that can determine your harvest?

  7. Hi Calvin, I have quite a few pepper seedlings where the plant looks healthy but the branches are growing sideways or downward. Any thoughts? I am using growlights.

    1. If the main stem is bending, it could be from low light (leggy growth), or it could just need a bit of time to stiffen up that main stem. You can use wood skewers to support the plants temporarily while they’re young, until the main stems develop of bit of bark/strength

  8. I have thin white spiral/trial lines on my chilli pepper fruits on the surface. Anybody know what these are? You can scratch / peel cut them off.

  9. Really was hoping to find info about maggots that have devastated my pepper plants this year. Most my peppers (the sweeter they are, the worse they got hit, hotter varieties did better) had a little bore hole and damage by a little chubby maggot inside. Gross and heartbreaking. Please help. Thanks.

    1. Those are most likely European Corn Borer. Difficult to deal with other than by covering the plants with insect netting to prevent the moth from landing on/near your plants. Crop rotation can help too.

  10. What causes the damage inside Habaneros and ghost peppers? Seeds are black and crusty black/ brown spots around seeds. None of others peppers have this.

  11. Double checked the banana pepper plants today. Plants are indeed fine, except for one yellow leaf toward the bottom on one. And it’s actually two plants that have the light brown, somewhat shriveled areas on some peppers, not all, and a couple of the peppers have these toward the bottom; otherwise on lower half of pepper, on the side. Moisture meter shows all plants have moist soil (in the blue range which is most moist). Plants all have more than an inch of straw mulch. I suspect a bit of blossom end rot, rather than sun scald as leaves are all fine except for the one yellow one at the bottom of the worst plant. I told my husband don’t water again for another day and use the water with the hydrated lime in it in the sprinkling can, next time. Does this seem about right?

    1. Cecilia – It is hard to tell without photos, but you can send some pictures to [email protected]. Moisture meters can be very inaccurate, so it is best to feel the soil as well. It is more likely the plant are over-watered than underwatered.

  12. Pepper plants look fine but the sweet banana peppers themselves on one plant have developed “brown areas” that are somewhat shriveled but no black mold. One brown area, on the side of the plant, not the bottom on each of three or four peppers, just in the past couple of weeks. This is on one plant only, in a marginally sunnier part of the garden. Plants together in a wider planter, and another planter just behind it are just fine–so far. Plant about 3 feet behind it, which gets slightly less sunshine is also fine. All plants are in containers, only two are together in a kind of ‘double-wide’ container.

  13. Hello, I have a Red Habanero pepper plant and 5 weeks ago I promptly watered it because I was going to not be home for one week so when I arrived the leaves were very soft, and I thought it had died, so I quickly watered it and waited 3 days, but it was losing is leaves, so I kept watering it every 3 day (it’s a potted plant) and new leaves started to grow it almost lost all is fruit, but one was still on so after 2 weeks it was going good, but I noticed the leaves were very small like on a bonsai and after the fruit that were also very small began to ripe, and I know that when fruits begin to ripe they don’t grow any more, so now I think to upgrade for a bigger pot mine is 1 foot tall by 9 inches (3 gallons) and the first pepper than ripped I tasted it, and it was not spicy at all (and I didn’t had covid) the second one that had ripped was yesterday, and it was very spicy but not like a real habanero and I waited a long time after they were red like in your forum also it is my first year growing peppers I have 23 others plant, and they stared to ripe, and also I hope you can read it all sorry for my English I’m French Canadian, but I tried to do my best job.

  14. I’ve been watching all your videos/reading the web lately (amazing job, really!), but I can’t find a reason for this,
    I have like 6 variety of high heat peppers on some big pots, growing slower than I’d expect but everything seemed fine, some yellow plants here and there but I stopped overwattering them and added a bit of nitrogen.. almost every plant is blooming, full of flowers, some of them become peppers but most of the flowers just seem to not be strong enough and are falling from the plant, I find flowers on the soil on a daily basis… have anyone ever saw something similar?

    1. Flower drop is common when it is hot (above 90°F or so for most varieties). Also, some types of peppers will drop more flowers than others. Normal to see it, we see it all the time! Some types that hold their fruits very well include Thai red, santaka, cayenne, and tabasco. Superhots can vary widely, we’ve had some grow 50+ pods at a time, and other plants that are lucky to produce 5 pods total.

    2. @Aitor R, For me it’s the same with one of my habanero when i shake a lot of flowers drop and i dont know why

  15. It seems most of the diseases/problems affect the leaves. I cannot find much on affects to fruit – at least that match my problem. I have one chili pepper plant that is supposed to be an ‘Ancho San Martin’ but the fruit being produced is yellow-green to light green and super wrinkled with ridges running vertically down the pepper. (They first came out looking almost like Ghost peppers, but the ridges are more linear.) Otherwise, the plant looks fine (although the leaves are smaller than my other pepper plants) and it is loaded with these peppers. It’s just that they don’t look anything like a poblano-type pepper. Is this a disease or did the nursery mislabel the plant? I can’t find pics of anything quite like it.

    1. @Cristi B., Update: I purchased your ebook. (Very nice!) The Shishito peppers in the photo on page 114 look an awful lot like my supposed Ancho San Martin peppers. Huh. My guess is someone switched labels between pots. (It was just one of those tags stuck into the soil so easy enough to remove.) So now — unless you have an explanation for poblano peppers looking like the shishito peppers in your photo — I am looking forward to trying the blistered shishito pepper recipe in one of your videos. 🙂

      1. Hah! It’s happened to us too, mystery plants or mis-marked seed packets. Thanks for supporting and getting our ebook, and hope you enjoy those blistered shishitos!

  16. Some of my habaneros look translucent and almost veiny under the surface. I have seen this with habaneros from the store, but I have no ideas what is wrong with them.

    1. It’s normal for some of the pods to be a bit translucent, especially when unripe. Wait for them to change color and they should turn a nice solid color. Don’t worry about it if they don’t!

  17. I am in northern Minnesota and until two days ago I had the most beautiful pepper plants I have ever grown. I wish I could send you a picture or two. It looks like bean rust, leaves, and fruit are falling off the plants.

  18. My peppers were beautiful. I sprinkled some pellet slow release fertizer on them , worked it in after the next rain all the leaves , blooms and tiny peppers have fallen off. Same thing happened last year. Leaves badly spotted. Very discouraged! Can you offer any help?

    1. Hmm, excess nitrogen can cause a lack of flowers. It is possible the fertilizer was too strong and may have burned the plants. Best to avoid high-nitrogen, especially later in the season when the plants are fruiting

  19. You always talk about fertilizer so I got the series of three Fox Farms (big blooms, etc) but I cannot find any place that says how much to give the individual plants. Hoping you have some words of wisdom for me. Thank you, Nora

  20. Hi, Calvin – After many years of growing the hottest peppers I could find, the last two seasons have been disasters. After good starts, mature plants that had started producing began producing only stunted, twisted leaves and fruit. Last year I sent pics to the county ag service, and the senior agent said it looked like broad mites. My research says plants have to be treated with a systemic to prevent infestation, and when symptoms appear, the plant is doomed. Any experience?

  21. Please help – this is my first year of growing peppers in my greenhouse. Now two out of the three have rice like things on them. The third has black like patches and the rice looking thing. Can you give me some advice? Thank you

  22. Hi I have several sweet pepper plants in my garden but one of them keeps flipping its leaves over until they are completely upside down. Is this normal?

  23. Hi I noticed some white spots on my pepper plant it looks like white parasites but they are on the plant they don’t move but the look exactly like them I don’t know what to do I have pictures but I can’t seem to find it anywhere on the internet

  24. My peppers are upright and healthy during the day, but near dusk the tips of the plant droop over. I live in zone 7a.

    1. Leaves move naturally as nighttime falls. You can see this in timelapses of the plants during the day/night cycle. So it is probably just this natural action!

    2. @peppergeek, Interesting, do you have any idea what causes this or what it’s purpose is? I love learning not just what the plants do, but why they do it.

  25. The “veins” on my bell pepper plant are turning yellow. I have not been able to find a cause. The leaves are not turning yellow just the veins that run through the leaf.

  26. Hi Calvin, I am not sure if this is a problem or not, my pepper plants have a sticky stuff all over the leaves and the peppers. I picked some of the peppers and washed it off them with water. Can you tell me what would cause this?

    1. Hmm, aphids to excrete a sticky substance, but you would likely notice damage from the aphids on the leaves. Slugs and snails also leave behind slimy trails, but again, there would probably be leaf damage, too

  27. Some of my pepper plants have and the inner side of the leaves are all black. What do you think it could be?

  28. Hello Calvin, I have yellow spots on some of my hot cherry pepper plants. what would cause this? I have a few pictures to attach. I’m not sure how?

  29. My scotch bonnets keeps getting targeted by flies that lay eggs in the fruit. How can I get rid of them?

  30. Hi, thank you so much for the article; my problem doesn’t seem to be mentioned.
    We have been having a garbage spring since I planted my peppers out (I am in zone 8a). I planted them out 8 days ago and they were quite happy, beautiful green leaves and even small flowerbuds. Now, they got viciously attacked by slugs (again with the weather) but are now protected.
    The problem is this morning I noticed on all the lower leaves, tiny brown/black spots on the entire surface of the leaves. Like, pinhead-small. The upper leaves look fine. And I am not sure if I should be worried/remove the affected leaves, or if this is fine?
    I would appreciate any advice. Thanks!

  31. I am perplexed my pepper plant which i thought was a bell pepper started throwing off lmuch onger branches with a few narrow elongated leaves; now there seem to be what look like small elongated pods. in opening these it appears that there are small seeds inside. What do you think is happening/happened.

  32. Am new in growing of pepper and I have a challenge.
    The leaves of the pepper is with some whitish colour and i don’t know how to treat it.

  33. I have something on my pepper seedlings, (both hot and sweet) on the leaves that looks like small grass seed. I have sprayed it with a solution of Hyd. Peroxide and water and that works for a day or two but then returns. What is this and how do I cure it? It doesn’t seem to stunt the growth. Thanks for any help.

  34. Mine is that there’s a whitish stuff covering the pepper leaves and they are drying up. Once healthy and bringing out flowers are drying up and looking malnourished.

  35. I’m new to growing chilies and I’m confused by purple coloration appearing on yellow immature chiles. I don’t know if it’s a problem (sunburn?) or part of the natural development. The plant appears healthy otherwise. I picked one and bit into it and it tasted fine with a medium heat developing in the mouth over a short time.

  36. Hello! So happy to have found your site and YouTube videos! I was looking for tips/help figuring out what is going on with our pepper plant. My husband was given a Calabrian pepper plant (grown from seed from a pepper plant brought here from Italy many years ago!). We only had it for a few weeks before the cold here in PA. We brought it inside near a window. It was doing great until about two days ago and the leaves are shriveling and hunched over. We’ve let the soil dry but then water it again. It still has 13 peppers on it! From green, to orange to ripe red. The windows are also near the radiators. Wondering if it’s too cold, too hot, too much water or what?? Hoping it’s not doomed as it was a special gifted plant! Any tips are greatly appreciated! Thank you!

    1. Pepper plants don’t love being inside, especially in the dry winter months when the heat is on. Also, window light is rarely enough to really sustain a full blown plant, especially if you expect it to fruit. Last, you may have brought in some unwanted pests with the plant from outdoors, that is out biggest reason to avoid bringing plants inside, though there are ways to mitigate that risk. Either way, it can definitely be kept alive until the weather warms up, I’d just say lower your expectations of it during the indoor period!

    2. @peppergeek, excellent! Thank you so much! Essentially I could just pick the peppers and prune it to be in its dormant state and hope for the best?!

  37. I have a pepper tree at least 20 years old. On a hanging branch, not touching the ground or anything else, there are several round, white, milky to the touch areas on the tiny, new branches. What is this and should I be worried?

  38. My habaneros and scotch bonnets are finishing up ripening on the plant now, but almost all of the ones I’ve harvested have black seeds and look almost moldy even though they just ripened. What do you think caused this and how do I avoid it next year?

    1. Sometimes, peppers will become infected while on the plant. Damage to the pods is to blame, whether by insects or physical damage (wind, etc.). Unfortunately, these are not worth saving and I wouldn’t recommend eating them. It happens to us too!

  39. Love all the info you put out. I also subscribed to your yt channel back in Feb. I have learned alot from all your info.Got a weird one for yah. So I got a jalapeño plant I’m growing under lights along with a cayenne and pablano. one jalapeño out of the others is a matte color aka no gloss to it, the cayenne plant also has two peppers that are a matte finish without any shine None are squishy or soft. All have a little gloss at the tips? Would love to know if this is a bad thing? I got reapers, 7pot chocolate brain strain, and 7 pot lava yellow seedlings that I just started and I am kinda worried it might spread.

  40. First time pepper grower here, your site comes up frequently when I use the goog for questions, quality content and I see ya’ll always respond to comments, it’s awesome. Great job guys!

  41. I have Habanero, ring of Fire, and hot banana peppers. Unfortunately the deer here love them and literally ate them all down to the y stalk. I will not get a crop this year now before winter. Do you think they will be ok to over winter and take back out in the spring, or would it be ok to try indoor growing over the winter.

    1. Bringing outdoor plants inside is always a risk I’d rather not have to take. Starting from seed again in spring is my best recommendation, but of course it is possible to overwinter peppers if you’d like.

  42. I’m in CO and while the plants – I’m growing Cayenne and Habaneros – are doing find the fruit is taking forever to turn. My habaneros are so big the plant needs to be staked up. When should they start to ripen or should I start harvesting & let them ripen off vine?

    1. I always let habaneros and cayennes ripen on the plant. The only exception is if your cayennes start to dry up on the plant, then you can pick some early to encourage another fruiting. For habaneros, we usually get our best harvests later in the year, sometime in late Sept and early Oct!

    2. @Tom, (I know this is from last year.) Assuming the weather is right, sometimes slightly low phosphate will delay ripening without obvious other symptoms. There are no real symptoms of excess phos though at the extreme it can displace other nutrients and they will show as deficient, and of course it is wasteful to add a gross excess.
      For mid season corrections I would only use a fully dissolved phosphate fertilizer as a drench, it tends to be a nutrient that is best put in the soil before planting, and unique among fertilizers it works a bit better in concentrated blobs or bands a couple inches below and to the side of the plants/row rather than evenly broadcast and mixed, especially in higher pH (limestone) soils. The roots will discover the phos resevoir and increase growth around it. The reason for blobs is that it slows the reactions with calcium and magnesium which tend to make the phos mostly insoluble.
      Farmers tend to do banding and will keep the same row locations for several years after until the next need for adding phos. This also complicates soil testing, but many modern farms use plant tissue testing as much as soil testing; they send some leaves or other plant parts to a lab for nutrient analysis at specific points in the growth cycle.(Such testing is only economical on the scale of acres.)

  43. I live in a second floor apartment and one of my green pepper plants had 2 peppers on it, one small and one almost fist size. The fist sized one was gone this morning.
    The plants are on my outside balcony unprotected. The dirt was undisturbed. Could a squirrel have snatched it? There are squirrels about but they stopped bothering my plants after I used some blood meal in the soil. Could it have been a crow or owl?

    1. Wow, that is unfortunate. I would honestly suspect neighbors before a squirrel (at least for a large pepper like that). However, it is also possible a deer or maybe a larger nocturnal animal could have chewed it away (raccoons maybe?)

    2. @peppergeek, deer on a 2nd floor balcony is a serious sign of giraffism.
      Move immediately to at least the 3rd or higher dloors! 😁

    3. @Gary Pledger, My ducks ate my whole crop of habeneros and ghosts the moment they started turning red. Crows maybe, but owls are carnivores. Chickens, jays, guinea fowl, are all suspects. Assuming these are a mild sort, rats and coons are possible culprates. Not sure if opossums go for peppers but they get into other vegetables and livestock feeds if they run out of bird eggs.

  44. I have 2 pepper plants….Big Bertha and Red Bell. The Red Bell is producing a lot of peppers but one of the peppers has like a scalded spot on it. None of the other ones have this. Both plants are being grown in a raised planter on my deck along with some Iceberg Head Lettuce. Your help would be greatly appreciated.

    1. We often have sun scald on bell peppers. They will sometimes grow straight up, above the leaves, leaving them vulnerable to the direct sunlight. If it gets too severe, the soft spots can begin to get moldy, so I’d say either try to shade them during the hottest part of the day, or consider picking them early to allow the plant to produce more pods elsewhere on the plant. You can also try to encourage the plants to set fruits lower on the plant by picking the flowers that are at the top.

  45. had a beautiful limo pepper plant, full of flowers then they all started wilting and all the flowers fell off then the leaves started falling off. Seems like plant is absolutely full of white flies and im trying spinosad soap and neem oil but it feels like im fighting a losing battle, not sure if i should just trash the plant and start all over again.

    1. That is rough, white flies are a real pain. Unfortunately you can’t always rely on the good insects to show up when you need them most.

  46. My pepper plant was producing some peps then I was “waiting” for them to grow and they shriveled up? What causes that. I’m a 1st time grower as well. I want to learn from my mistakes

    1. If it was a longer type pod (such as cayenne) this is fairly common. It usually happens when the plants aren’t getting enough water, or it is very hot/dry. However, the long.skinny types tend to have this issue more than others in our experience.

  47. I had a pepper plant that was doing well and then rapidly died. It’s joints were black throughout, thoughts? Thank you for your time.


  48. Why are my peppers dented and irregular at the tips? They otherwise look healthy

  49. I have 10 pepper plants all the top leaves are shriveled, but not dry. The bottom leaves are full of life. One of the plants I did get a pepper off of is perfect. What would cause leaves on top of plant to shrink/shrivel up?

    1. Like any other pepper – plenty of warmth, moisture and time. We noticed that they did take a long time to germinate (longer than most other varieties we grew last year).

  50. can I cut off the top of the main stem that was diseased? I have treated my pepper and treated the plant.
    the healthy leaves are under the bad main stem.
    I’m afraid the plant won’t thrive and die.
    It had spider mites etc when I got it as a gift.
    It looked good at first

  51. hi Calvin, thank you for sharing so much knowledge on growing pepper. My pepper plant is going through a tough time and I chanced upon your videos while searching on the internet for a cure. I’m not sure if you can shed some light on it. It was starting to produce flowers when I noticed some of its tiny new leaves at the top curling backwards. That began about 10 days ago. Now all new leaves are curled. 🙁
    I wish there’s something I can do to save it.

    1. Hm, well this could be a number of things. Curling is often caused by pests. Look closely underneath the leaves for any signs of aphids, thrips, white flies, etc. They are often tiny, so look as closely as you can.

      If you don’t see pests, it could also be residual herbicide from nearby farms, or even from locally sourced materials such as straw or hay. These chemicals are sprayed onto the fields that produce hay/straw, and are ‘persistent,’ meaning they don’t degrade and can harm plants in your garden.

      The last possibility I’d consider is disease. If the plants begin to develop spots, or the leaves are falling off and dying, then your plants may have some sort of virus/fungal disease. These can be serious, and often require removal of the plant to save other nearby plants.

      Hope this helps!

    2. @peppergeek, thank you so much for replying so quickly. You have definitely given me some ideas where the issue could be.

      This plant had spider mites and mealybugs when I found it in my mother-in-law’s backyard about 2 months ago. I had trimmed it and treated it with neem oil and DE then. It kind of bounced back with new growth and even started to produce flowers recently. So I am looking forward to see its fruits.

      Unfortunately, I found 3 other pepper plants starting to have new leaves that are tiny and greyish in colour, with a couple starting to curl 🙁 . I have separated these “abnormal” ones from my other plants.

      I would rule out herbicide since there isn’t any farms nearby. I have to take a closer look at them to check for pests.

      In the mean time, I have sprayed one of them with baking soda solution – leaves, stems, soil and all. Will monitor if it improves.

      Hope I can save my babies.

  52. We live in Florida and started peppers inside and gradually gave them outside time in preparation for in ground transplanting. We planted, in our raised bed, Jalapeno, Thai Chili and Sweet peppers a couple of weeks ago. During the day a couple of them droop a bit but recover in late afternoon/evening (when the sun is setting). Is this normal? Should I water them more due to the intense Florida sun/heat? Thanks as always.

    1. @Bill Flynn,I am in Zone 9b, Plant City FL & yes I would water them late morning to mid-day. I have Thai chili, jalapeño, banana peppers, & bell peppers growing right now and usually give them a light water between 11am-1:30pm..the only downside to watering extra during our hottest months on top of Florida’s random rain storms during our current rainy season is that it creates the perfect environment for fungus to set in. From now until early September fungal infections will be very problematic. Peppers are strong plants that can pull through most blights of fungal trouble but you still should be routinely spraying fungicide to try to stay on top of the problem. My biggest struggle is pepper leaf spot. My peppers get it every year and several have it right now due to the heavy rains we’ve been having and high heat index this past week. Watering is key but using a good fungicide is key as well.

  53. I’ve been growing a few varieties of peppers from seed and yesterday while I was at work a peacock (I swear this is a true story) ate most of the leaves off two of the babies. Is there anything I can do to help them recover?

    1. Wow, that is a first. The only thing to do is wait. If there are some nodes left on the main stem, then they may very well recover. Give them some time, treat them as though they are still alive, and you may be lucky! Also, find a way to keep the peacocks out…

  54. Please sir help me my bell peppers have ber also my tomatoes leave is curling and my super habenero is not fruit please help sir but it’s inside green house am from Nigeria

  55. I have a Thai pepper plant growing in a pot and I pruned it(topped off) a couple of weeks ago. The amount of new shoots and leaves is incredible. Should I cut any of them back? Some leaves are large and actually turn from time to time. Thanks for all of the information on this site!

    1. You can just allow it to bush out naturally from this point! It should continue to grow. If it is too thick/bushy, you can thin out some leaves to improve airflow, but I would simply let the plant go.

  56. Hi. Last year April I planted some Caribbean seasoning pepper seeds. In Trinidad they are known as pimento pepper but throughout the Caribbean they are knows as caribbean seasoning pepper. I have never been able to grow anything and this was my fourth time trying. I was able to get them to grow. They seem to be surviving the winter, and although they are a bit stunted, at least I haven’t killed them.
    On the leaves of some of them are some dusty spots. More dusty looking than spots. I wish I could upload a photo. I have been clipping off the bad leaves but it slowly comes back. Also some of the leaves are warped. But the major thing is the dusty raised things on the top of the leaves. Can you suggest something. Other than that the plant looks healthy.

  57. I want your help my habanero pepper the fruit are now turning black and the leaves also turned yellow and the stem dry up

  58. Hi Pepper Geek! I just recently got into growing peppers and I started growing cayenne in a container. I never pruned it or anything, just let it grow at its own pace. It started producing flower buds and some of the flower opened. I always shake it lightly every morning to make sure it pollinated. The problem is, all of these flowers fell off and I noticed that all of the new shoots growing are brown and looks to be wilting. It rarely ever develops into a large leaf, it just dries out and fall. What could be the problem here? The other leaves are fine for now, just the new growth seem to be wilting.

  59. Thanks for this article!

    I grow chilies indoors in tents. Multiple chili plant leaves have started turning bronze and crisp in the part of leaves closer to the stem and eventually fall. New growth has stalled and is deformed with tiny unrecognizable leaves that dry out. I don’t believe this is due to pests as I treated organically previous infestations of thrips and spider mites and they are gone. Could be related to temperature, humidity or airflow or else. This has happened before.
    Would greatly appreciate any advice on what could be going on.

    Happy to share photos.

  60. Thank you for your video on “getting rid of the burn on your hands” Foolishly I cut up a full 2qt bowl of, fresh from our garden banana peppers, without gloves! After washing my hands the BURN set in…they were turning redder by the second. I ran for the milk, soaked for a while, then rinsed…ouch. Next tried a baking soda paste…ow. On to the aloe plant, squeezed out the juice and lathered by hands…hands still pulsing with the burn. Ok now to help from on-line: Vinegar to cut the oil and a layer of corn starch which I kept on for a loooong while, the pain eased a bit…I just had to “bite the bullet” and let the pain subside overnight. This morning my fingers are still red but the pain is gone…my final words: NEVER cut up a large batch of hot peppers without GLOVES. Thanks for listening, Katie

  61. Hi! I am newish to growing peppers and some of my more recent jalapeños have weird light colored patches that I have not been able to find an explanation for. Any idea what this could be? I have pictures I can provide.

    1. It could be sun burn – if the pods are exposed to direct sunlight and don’t have any leaves to shade them, they can develop soft, white patches that can eventually rot.

  62. Hey Pepper Geek,

    I’ve got a pretty rampant chili/pepper maggot problem this year – this is a first time for me ever even hearing about them. I’ve had to toss about half my yield so far. How can I combat the problem now and prevent it next year? I’m growing about 15 sweet and hot pepper varieties and it has affected them all, including some tomatoes. Such a drag! Thanks for your wisdom in advance.

  63. Started 3 types of seeds, Bells, Arbol and Guajillo. The sprouted up within a few weeks after sowing. But then the problems started. A few of the plants first leaves started to turn purple/black on the outer edges. I talked to my local nursery and they suggested I add some nutrients. And now the plants are starting to fall over and the leaves are falling off. Most just have the start of the 1st set of true leaves. Help! I think I have killed them.

    1. Falling over sounds like damping off – too much moisture, and especially a problem in cooler temperatures. Water less. Purpling leaves is normal for many varieties. Too much fertilizer is just as bad as no nutrients! Plants can get burned and overwhelmed. Hope this can help!

      1. Thanks for your response. They have all died…I think the killing blow was damping off, but after watching all of your YouTube videos, I know I made several mistakes. So I am going to start over and try again.

  64. My little jalapeño plant has been producing beautiful fruits all summer, until about 2 weeks ago, the stems suddenly began turning brown and became shriveled, appearing to prohibit nutrients/water from reaching the pepper. I just picked all of them suffering this dilemma (all sizes, and all green) and have maybe 2 peppers on healthy stems left. Lots of flowers remain. I haven’t found this type of description of issue in my searching for answers.

    My other weird symptom is a few leaves become sick (slight discoloration, darkening) and then flip upside down on their stem. I keep picking these odd leaves off, but haven’t had this problem with past pepper plants. Any ideas on either problem? I grow lots of veggies and these are the only ones having problems. Thanks!!

    1. I have been having the second thing you mentioned- leaves turning darker and flipping upside down. They also have a kind of puckered or wrinkly look. I have no idea what this is either!

      Sorry to not be of help but thanks for asking this question!

  65. Hi pepper geek,
    I’m not sure what is happening with my Cajun bell pepper plant. While it is producing some nice little peppers, it’s producing a ton of little berries. Do I snip these off? What are they?

    Thanks so much for your help.

  66. Just joined. Thanks. I’ve been growing peppers (and other edibles as well) here in my home garden for about 20/25 years now. Its size is about 10′ x 30′ with each row about 18″ wide. Over the years I have had (and still have) more problems than most folks ever imagine. What I have learned is that I need to get as much as possible out of my plants as soon as possible because, inevitably, I will lose the war. A practice that I have done for several years now is adding a small amount of Epsom salt to each hole before setting in the plant. Additionally I spray the leaves with a mixture of the salt and water about every 2-3 weeks or so. As I understand it, pepper & tomato crave magnesium & sulfur which is what Epsom salt is. Your thoughts? Thanks again

    1. Hi Joe – we have mixed feelings on epsom salt. Sure, it does provide magnesium, but it can also affect the calcium uptake by binding to calcium in the soil and reducing the amount that is available to the plants. If the soil is desperately lacking magnesium (and you know this for sure), then epsom salt would likely be beneficial, but we don’t usually amend with it unless we know there is a need.

      We intend to keep our soil ‘happy’ by adding compost annually until the soil reaches the right consistency and nutrient content, and then just work to keep it protected at all times (covered in the winter, keep something growing in it, avoid tilling whenever possible).

  67. Hi…. i need part of this information posted by you for farmers in my country. 6 amongst this disease is common here and this info is needed by them. I will be taking part of the information as source for mine. Hope you wont mind

  68. New to gardening.
    Got a young (red) pepper plant from nursery about 2.5 weeks back. In India, monsoon has just arrived. Sunny days are rare. I keep it under shade to avoid overwatering from rain. However, the growth is super slow. The flowers are falling without blooming with little green stem attached to them.
    There were 2 tiny yellow pepper growing at the time of bringing them home, and in these 2.5 weeks, they have barely turned a shade darker.
    Leaves are a little wilted and turning yellow often. Those which are yellow, when touched upon, are falling without resistance. I am worried about my young one. 🙁 What can i do to make it better?

    1. Also, the potting mix has garden soil, coco peat, and cow dung manure (it’s good organic manure used here quite often).

    2. Unfortunately with too much water and little sunlight, the characteristics you describe are common and expected..on sunny days, give them as much as possible, and make sure drainage is good for when it rains

  69. Hi there,
    Love your channel. I got a late start on my garden, planted peppers on 10th of June in the ground. Living in NH we have had 12 in of rain alone in July. My peppers looked horrible (yellow leaves, dropped leaves, etc). Added nitrogen to compost when planted, just fertilized with Phosphorus (highest number) granular and showing signs of life plus cut off flowers as you mentioned to put energy back in. Should I now use FoxFarm, I have all 3 bottles you showed in the video and which one? I need lots and lots of peppers to make my red pepper jelly – 🆘
    Many thanks,

    1. Hey Andrea – thanks! I’m glad to hear the plants are coming back a bit. You can add some of the big bloom and tiger bloom during watering to help encourage more blooms and to give a bit of nitrogen. Don’t go overboard at this point in the season, as the plants should just need time and decent weather to produce!

  70. Hi. My chili pepper plants are about 2 years old. It getting taller and taller. Do I need to prune the top even if it has lots of flowers? Also there are white mold like stuff on the bottom branches. One branch actually got brittle and fell off. Please help..

    1. You don’t have to prune, but you can if you want to. For an older plant, I might prune to keep it tidy and convenient for the plant’s location.

  71. There’s blackening on my peppers. There’s black joints which my research says is normal but now that the peppers are growing there’s black streaks in a couple then one with mostly black. What is happening and how do I help my peppers?

    1. Some peppers turn black-ish during ripening (jalapenos do this naturally before they turn red). Also, direct sun exposure on the peppers can cause discoloration.

  72. My pepper plants have random places on the stems that are black . Leaves seem healthy and they are growing flowers . Any idea why the stems are black in places.

  73. I’m having a problem with my plants flowering at all. I live in NM and it is hot but I do have them covered to protect them. Any suggestions on how to encourage them?

  74. I am having holes on my scotch bonnet leaves. What can this be pls I am new to this and don’t know what to do.

  75. My Sandia Chili peppers have brown, wrinkled skin from mid-fruit to tip.
    I am new to this game and am trying to find my way. The plants themselves look healthy, nice leaves, etc. but pods are growing slowly and now the brown dry issues. i have applied master blend with extra calcium nitrate and magnesium sulfate in regular recommend strengths? I use drip irrigation and have watering schedules set for three times daily for a total watering time of 45 minutes. I live in Phoenix and temps are now consistently over 100 degrees. Help !!

  76. Some of my ghost pepper plants have small white spots on the top canoopy leaves near the stem, I am concerned as to what it may be, and have yet to find anything on it online (closest thing I could find would be spider mites but unsure atm) would enjoy to see what your input on my said situation may be, the plants are growing and I have applied some neem oil just in case, what do you think the situation is? If you would like pictures or more information please email me.

  77. Any thoughts on why a raised bed garden with hot peppers on each end and middle peppers are a variety of sweet, purple, yellow, red, green bell peppers. All of the sweet peppers got a disease. I wish I could show you a pic. The leaves curled, and looked as if they had blight. I had no blight on anything last year. The leaves would fall off terribly. The fruits were small and very few. I’m a seasoned gardener and never had this happen. What would effect sweet peppers but not hot peppers.

    1. I’m having something similar happen: my bell pepper plants seem to have a sort of “failure to thrive”, the fruits are stunted, and exhibit a sort of tan callous that wraps partway around the fruit and cinches it like a belt. I’ve pulled 3 of our 4 plants because of it. The last plant seems more resistant.

      We’re growing them in a partly shaded hoop house with tomatoes and poblanos.

  78. Advice needed,
    I have an older pepper plant that’s dropping it’s new leaves and flower buds like like flies. The older more established leaves are yellowing but maintaining dark leaves, and yes it already has fruit on it.
    I’m afraid I’m gonna lose my plant. Any advice on what could be wrong?

  79. Dear pepper geek, I’m very new to pepper growing- this is my second season. I have started the hardening of my plants for their move outside and I have encountered a problem I havent had before. Some of my plant after beeing exposed to the outside have some of their leaves loose all shine ..they turn mat green before turning white and falling off. Any idea what might be the cause? Thanks so much for all your content. It got me into peppers and I enjoy it so much. Best regards

  80. Hello, several of my plants are exhibiting these irregular brown markings. It does not look like blight or bacterial leaf spot. My guess is that it is sunscalding, but it doesn’t quite match up with scalded leaves I’ve seen in the past. Do you have any idea what it could be based on the photo?

    1. I’ve seen sun scalded leaves turn white, brown and even close to black. If the leaves are turning crispy/crunchy, then it is most likely the culprit.

  81. the new growth on a couple of my plants is curling and growing at a very slow rate and then dying off. any idea what could be the cause of this? plants look healthy otherwise.

  82. Hello. The green leaves on my sweet pepper appear white and dry at the end. My pepper is at it we early stage. What can I do?

  83. The leaves on my peppers are darkened like rust and the ends where there were buds are now nubs . It seems like some kind of fungus or bacteria. Any ideas? I have treated with neem, soap, and baking soda solution but I still see the problem lingering.

  84. Hi my problem is that my Hot Peppers begin to grow fruit, then a Black spot develops on the fruit near the stem which causes the fruit to fall off of the tree before it matures properly. Can you help?

    1. Hm, strange. We haven’t seen this personally, but you could be dealing with pests. Certain parts of the world have pepper weevils which bore into the fruits to lay eggs. It shouldn’t make the fruit drop, however, and they don’t typically go after hot peppers. I would take a close look for any small insects.

  85. The Marconi Rosso red pepper seeds has produced decent plants but the leaves have white bumps. Started several in February and noticed this. Destroyed the plants and grew more along with the calwonder green peppers. The green are beautiful. The re seeded Marconi Rosso plants have the same white bumps on the leaves. I am familiar with white flies, gnats and spider mites and it is not these, as the green peppers are perfect and are growing side by side the red.
    I would appreciate your feedback!

  86. Any idea about the little white bumps on the stem, near ground level, of some of my 7 week old plants. They almost look like roots want to grow out of them. Do I simply cover them with soil, and call it good? They are in 3 1/2 inch pots now and won’t go into their final grow bags for three more weeks.

  87. I have a variety I grow from seed (similar to habanada) which has a strange growth pattern when young — it grows a lot of leaves with less than an inch of height. The leaves also curl up at the edges (possibly because this variety is much more sensitive to sun than any other variety I’ve seen). Any ideas for what would cause such a low growth habit or what to do about it? My recollection is that they do eventually grow out of it and form a proper bush.

    1. Not really, different varieties just grow differently. Many baccatums have longer internode length, while some chinense species have that tight, squat shape you’re describing. Just let it do its thing!

      1. This is almost certainly at least 50% chinense, so that makes a lot of sense, though this is even more low and wide than a young habanero. This one was supposed to be a ghost pepper, but has no heat at all, just the other elements of taste and smell when you bite into it that make you think “oh, this one is going to be hot”, and then it isn’t. Could well have been a habanada or aji dulce seed mixed in by mistake, or just a mutation.

  88. I’m experiencing curly leaves in little pepper garden.i use drip irrigation. the garden has tomatoes alongside too so I water them jointly.i inte d reducing water supply and introduce ground egg shells at base of pepper plants.
    Pls advice me.
    Thank you

    1. If it is overwatering, you could try to adjust the location of your drip irrigation system and hand water the peppers. I would also check for any pests that might be causing the curling. However, sounds like you are right about the watering – tomatoes are thirstier plants than peppers

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