When starting pepper seeds, a common issue we face is the seed coat getting stuck on the seedling. If you do not remove it, the plant may fail to emerge, preventing photosynthesis and eventually dying.
In this article, we will share our method of removing the seed coat from pepper seedlings. It doesn’t always work, but it definitely helps make the process easier.
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What is a Seed Coat?
You will likely already know what a seed coat is, but allow us a brief explanation. A seed coat, or seed husk, is the protective outer coat of a seed. These vary in shape and size depending on the type of plant in question.
For peppers, the seed coats are quite susceptible to becoming stuck on seedlings when they sprout. This phenomenon is also known as “helmet heads” because the seed coat resembles a helmet covering the first set of leaves.
The first leaves on a seedling are known as the cotyledons (pronounced kah-du-LEE-dun), and they are the embryonic leaves. They provide the plant with energy to produce roots and a strong stem during early stage growth.
For this reason, it is essential that you remove the seed coat that is stuck from the plants ASAP! If the cotyledons do not receive light, the plant will likely not make it.
We take preventative measures to help reduce the number of seed coats that get stuck, but without fail, we always get a few each year. So let’s talk about how to remove the seed husks safely.
Removing the Seed Coat
The basic principle is to soften the seed coat that is stuck on your seedling. This will make the seed husk pliable and more manageable when attempting to remove it.
If you simply try to rip the seed coat from the seedling, you will likely break the stem at the base of the leaves, killing the plant. To avoid this, start by spritzing the seed coat that is stuck, ensuring that it is fully moistened with water.
Tip: Don’t let the seed coat dry out! If you have a fan running for aeration, turn it off during this process to ensure that the water is absorbed into the seed coat rather than evaporated into the air.
After about 10 minutes, the seed coat should be much more pliable and manageable. Using your thumb and pointer finger, try to gently wiggle the seed coat from the seedling.
If the seed husk is still stiff, spritz it again and wait another 10 minutes. Allow the seed coat to be completely moistened before forcing it off. Once it is properly saturated, the seed coat should come free much easier.
Some will be more difficult than others to remove. If the entire cotyledons are covered by the seed, you may not be able to remove it without taking the leaves with it. If this happens, the plant will not survive.
Don’t try to rush this process, especially if you only have one plant that has sprouted. Work like a surgeon – bring the seed cells to a comfortable location where you can be as precise and calm as possible during the removal.
Preventing Seed Coat Sticking
The best way to deal with seed coats getting stuck is to prevent it in the first place. This problem usually occurs when conditions in the soil medium are dried out.
When the seed coat is stiff during germination, shedding it during sprouting is more difficult for the plant. It can be tricky to avoid it in a dry, indoor environment during late winter.
Tips to avoid seed coats sticking:
- Spritz the soil surface daily during germination
- Use humidity domes to keep germinating seeds from drying out
- Spray the seedling sprouts when they begin to emerge to encourage shedding of the seed coat
The first time you see a seed coat stuck, it can be confusing. Did I do something wrong? Is my plant okay? Thankfully, with some careful handiwork, it is simple to remedy in most cases.
This is another reason that we recommend planting multiple seeds in each seed cell. If one of the sprouts is lost to this issue, at least you’ll have a backup plant to nurture throughout the growing season!
I hope this helped you deal with seed coats getting stuck on your pepper plants. If you have any questions, let us know below.